CAYENNE

Cayenne is the capital of the overseas department of French Guiana. It is also the largest population center in French Guiana. The old city stands at the western end of a small, hilly peninsula between the Cayenne and Mahury Rivers. It has grown to incorporate the neighboring townships of Remire-Montjoly and Matoury. The total population of the municipality approaches 100,000.

The old town of Cayenne has been remade into one large tourist attraction. Renovation of older structures and new construction intentionally built in the French colonial style has preserved the historical look of the old city. The streets are lined with colonial wrought-iron balconies and louvered shutters painted in tropical pinks, yellows and turquoise. Even the old port of Cayenne has been remade into a scenic waterfront.

Commercial traffic was rerouted to the new port of Dégrad-Des-Cannes. Heavy silting had made the harbor unsafe for boats with drafts of over 12 feet. River barges converted into expensive apartments, small pleasure craft and water taxis are pretty much all that remains. Along the old stone quays is a bustling vegetable and fish market. All the typical tropical offerings are available, as are exotic delicacies such as crocodile and monkey meat if one knows where to enquire. The area is renowned for its fine restaurants and trendy boutiques.

The old town is famous for its annual carnival which starts on the first Sunday after New Year's Day and continues with popular all-night costume balls and Sunday afternoon parades every weekend until Mardi Gras. As expected, prices are high, as is security. What may not be expected is the nature of the security. The Gendarmerie has a strong presence, but you are more likely to see marines of the 9th Infantry Regiment, especially near the Place de Grenoble, where most of the official government buildings are located.

The district is bound to the west by the Cépérou military reservation, which includes the Fort Cépérou National Park and the garrison for the 9th Marine Infantry Regiment. Beyond this idilic city center and the buffer zone created by the military reservation is a highway-riddled urban sprawl reminiscent of any modern city. One of the most notorious districts in the city is the Village Chinois (Chinatown) also known as Chicago. Even with the danger many flock to the district for its nightlife. It is the heart of the music scene in Cayenne.

(Written by Destecado)